TWP’s Path From Best-Kept Secret to Serious Fashion Player

To track TWP’s rise from insidery fashion label to mainstream player, look to the real estate.

In August, the downtown New York ready-to-wear brand moved into its new headquarters at 21 Howard Street, having purchased the building to house its offices, showroom, manufacturing and design — all of which will be fully realized by 2027. To celebrate the new digs, it hosted its Spring/Summer 2027 show at the HQ’s bottom floor on day one of New York Fashion Week.

The sweeping space felt like an arrival for the 2021-founded label, which debuted on the calendar with a small showing at Fouquet’s only a few seasons ago, in 2024.

Then, there are the stores. TWP opened its first outpost in London in August, before its second location on New York’s Madison Avenue in September, bringing its store count to 12. Five more will open by the end of the year, meaning in 2026 alone, TWP will have doubled its store count, hitting 17 stores, up from seven stores the year prior.

The spacious SoHo HQ and store blitz are signs of how much the brand has grown in the five years since Trish Wescoat Pound co-founded the brand alongside entrepreneur and investor Andrew Rosen. (The pair met at Theory, another brand Rosen co-founded, where Wescoat Pound worked for seven years early in her career.)

This season’s collection offered a glimpse of how Wescoat Pound plans to grow TWP’s aesthetic offering, alongside the backend business. The show opened with a series of sportier-than-usual looks, in bright colors and technical fabrics. “I liked the idea of taking our wheelhouse of neutrals and adding pops of colors,” she said in the studio the day before the show. “And all of this techy fabric feels new, it feels fresh.”

A series of looks that were, as Wescoat Pound puts it, “more TWP-coded”, followed. Cue the great shirt, great pant combo; the tailored skirts and the quality basic tees.

The all-leather looks were especially alluring. TWP’s paper leather and suede are bestsellers, the designer says, so she brings them back each season in fresh silhouettes.

Wescoat Pound’s approach to the cummerbund — a popular accessory on the New York runways this season — illustrates how she sees the TWP woman. “Taking a cummerbund pant and wearing it with a T-shirt — she’s a cool girl.

It’s just making it feel interesting and new,” she says.

For SS27, Wescoat Pound also amped up the accessories. There are lots of belts, a category that’s performed especially well for the brand since launching them in 2025. There are more bags on offer, too, including belt bags (“I’m really into not having to carry anything,” she says). And, this season, TWP introduced eyewear for the first time, all made in France.

Price wise, TWP is operating at a sweet spot. “The average price here is significantly higher than what the contemporary market is doing, and significantly lower than what the designer market is doing,” Rosen says, arguing that TWP is operating in what was, for a time, a major void.

As consumers tire of luxury’s ever-increasing prices — so much so that some brands are now lowering them to regain consumer spend — many ultra-high-net-worth individuals are now seeking clothing they can buy in the tier below, that they know will be well-made and offer better value for money.

TWP shirts are in the mid-hundreds, skirts and dresses range from there to the low thousands, jeans sit around $500. The shearling coat on display at Madison is $5,000.

That 80% of TWP’s product is made in the US via the brand’s New York atelier does drive prices up, but Rosen reasons that, when you factor in freight rates and tariffs, when doing business in the US, the cost basis is low enough that prices level out.

Growth has been fast and steady. The brand wouldn’t share specific revenues, but the business doubled in size during its first three years, says Rosen, who is TWP’s sole investor. In 2025, it was up 70% year-on-year, followed by 60% growth this year.

Now, TWP is at an inflection point: it’s a buyer favorite — the brand has over 175 stockists, including Net-a-Porter, Moda Operandi, and Elyse Walker — and has a strong, growing fan base. But unlike its contemporaries, including Toteme and Nili Lotan, TWP hasn’t fully broken through to the mainstream.

Its pared-back, practical-yet-chic minimalist aesthetic finds synergies with brands like Khaite, Kallmeyer, and Tibi. But the co-founders believe that TWP can stand apart.

“People think of TWP as very basic or classic, but it isn’t really,” Rosen says, arguing that the style of dress Wescoat Pound is proposing is both new and enticing — hence its customers buying into the brand via whole new wardrobes.

This means there’s still ample room for growth, and TWP is just getting started. “Even though the brand has grown a lot, it’s still pretty quiet,” Rosen says. “This is only our fifth year.” The clothing design has come a long way since TWP’s early days, he adds. Wescoat Pound agrees: “Every season, we’re not resting on our laurels. We’re always trying to do better and raise the bar.”

The veteran playbook

The status of TWP’s founders — as industry veterans — has been a major help, the pair agree. Wescoat Pound says she’s learned everything from Rosen, an early mentor during her Theory days, though he’s quick to point out that she’s in the same boat.

“Most designers start their company when they’re really young, and they have a passion and a flair, but they don’t have the experience,” Rosen says. “Trish started the company when she had a lot of experience and she had success and she had failures, and there was a lot more depth to her as a designer.”

This experience has informed how the two do business — and it’s never a matter of experimentation, Rosen says. “A lot of people think that fashion is changing, but if you really focus on the product and the consumer and your messaging and the experience, it’s very relevant to what we did 30 years ago,” Wescoat Pound adds.

While brands that launch in the 2020s typically do so with a social and celebrity-heavy strategy, TWP started the opposite way: with wholesale. At launch, the founders connected with a host of specialty stores (they’re now in 175-plus retailers) to stock the brand.

“Some brands build their businesses from social media hype and influencers; others do major marketing campaigns. We made great clothes that we sold to stores,” Rosen says.

Once they got customers hooked, the pair started to expand. Now, the business is shifting from a 50-50 retail-DTC split further toward DTC — now that TWP owns more channels to sell through.

This hyper-focus on product has bled through to today. As Rosen focuses on the strategy side, Wescoat Pound is all-in on brand and product development. “The idea is always functionality and utility,” she says. She pulls out a blazer that can be worn three ways, by unbuttoning the bottom panel.

“It’s this elongated, really chic, very clean blazer, but you can take the skirt off and then you have this little fitted blazer, or you can wear it as a mini dress,” she says. “It’s a great thing to travel with without feeling tricky.” A pair of two-way pants offer similar flexibility, as does a skirt that can be worn on its own or over pants.

Most exciting to the editors who spent time in TWP’s showroom this season is the elastic Wescoat Pound has added to the inside of her blazers’ arms for when you want to push your sleeves up — for aesthetic or practical reasons. “It’s elastic, but it’s not too tight, so it’s not cutting your arm,” she says.

“But it will keep it up, because I’m constantly doing this.”

The in-store edge

Rosen always planned to go heavy on the store openings, but the rate at which the brand has done so has been dictated by the business performance, he says. This year, in addition to Madison Avenue and London, TWP has opened in Charleston, Nantucket, and Austin. By the end of the year, it will open in the Palisades, Manhasset, Houston, Las Vegas, and Naples, as well as moving to a new location in Dallas.

Madison Avenue, he notes, is performing especially well; sales the day before we met hit $35,000, far exceeding the $8,000-odd the team targeted. “It was really good.

It was really surprising,” he says. He describes stores as mini HQs.

“It’s a place where we can service our business in that community. A lot of people, they don’t necessarily come into the store, but they have a relationship with the salesperson, and we’re sending things to them,” he says, noting that a lot of business winds up being done outside the actual store.

“But it’s the headquarters in that city or town to be able to operate from.”

The in-store experience is key to understanding the TWP brand, Wescoat Pound says. It’s why she has backgammon boards in each space and will host tournaments for customers to come and play.

She also works with Lisa Perry’s Onna House Gallery to exhibit the work of female artists. (You can buy the pieces in-store.) At the Madison Avenue opening celebration on Wednesday, attendees — many of whom were Wescoat Pound’s friends, others simply brand fans — mingled and sipped on white wine while browsing the store’s offering.

There was no shortage of belt and leather pendant purchases, in order to make use of the engraving service offered throughout the evening, despite the multi-hundred-dollar price tags. Few women left without a TWP shopping bag in hand.

The increased store count is also how a lot of customers are discovering TWP. In the Madison boutique, there are just as many new customers that weren’t familiar with the line as those who were, Wescoat Pound says. In Nantucket, she’s noticed there are a lot of customers that weren’t familiar with the brand, or had seen TWP in a specialty store, which was only carrying the brand’s shirts.

The average ticket price across stores is high, Rosen notes, with customers typically buying at least two to three pieces at a time. “Sometimes, especially in contemporary, there are one or two kinds of products people will buy from a brand.

But for us, they’ll come and buy a shirt and a pant or a blazer, outerwear and a sweater,” Wescoat Pound says. “When they tell you they have a closet for TWP and they have multiple homes where they have the same things in them, you’re just like, ‘Wow’.”

Looking ahead, though international expansion is in the works, the pair are in no rush. Rosen describes London as “an extension of the US”, an easy entrypoint to test the waters, but doesn’t expect to go full-throttle on international growth for another three years. “The focus is really US today, international tomorrow.”