The Spring/Summer 2027 season opened in New York on September 10. New York, London and Milan are done, Paris opens today (September 28), and Louis Vuitton closes it on October 6. This was the first season with fur off New York's official schedule. Alexander McQueen showed in London again, Armani named its first creative director from outside the family, and Paris has just two official debuts.
New York: the first fur-free official schedule
NYFW ran September 10–15 with about 70 shows and presentations on the official calendar. Last December the CFDA announced that from September 2026, brands on the Official NYFW Schedule could no longer use animal fur. Mink, fox, rabbit, karakul lamb, chinchilla, coyote and raccoon dog are all on the list; leather and shearling aren't. Fur still turned up at February's Fall/Winter shows, so this September was the first season under the rule.
London got there first. It banned fur from the runway in 2018 and stopped promoting it in 2023, and Milan later dropped fur from its official promotion. That leaves Paris as the only one of the big four with no policy. Magazines have moved too: Condé Nast's Vogue, Vanity Fair and Glamour dropped animal fur from editorial and advertising this year, after ELLE and InStyle did the same.
London: McQueen back where it started
London ran September 17–21, with Burberry closing. Alexander McQueen was founded in London in 1992 and showed in Paris for years after Lee McQueen's death in 2010. This season it left the Paris schedule for London. Creative director Seán McGirr staged a combined men's and women's show and brought back the ultra-low "bumster" from the 1994 Nihilism collection, recut in heavy wool and leather.
Reactions split. Some fans said the bumsters were the moment the house felt like McQueen again. Others went look by look on forums, matching a jacket-and-micro-shorts pairing to Tom Ford, a tulle skirt to Dior and stacked platforms to Versace, and a few complained about fit. That one hurts most at a house known for tailoring.
The same week, Mulberry returned to the official schedule under Christopher Kane, and Marks & Spencer marked 100 years in fashion with its first official LFW slot, selling the runway pieces from 12:30 the same day.
Milan: Prada's skirts, and a new era at Armani
Milan ran September 22–28 and Prada opened it. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons built the collection around the skirt: pleated shapes that stood away from the body, crystal embroidery, oversized fastenings. Maria Grazia Chiuri, formerly at Dior, showed her first spring collection for Fendi, heavy on lace and lingerie details, with robes worn as outerwear. Across the week, hemlines dropped toward the knee, and Jil Sander and Tod's cut tailoring looser and longer.
Milan also had changes at the top. After Giorgio Armani's death, the Armani group appointed Dario Vitale on September 16 as creative director of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani accessories, the first time it has handed creative control to someone outside the family. With a week to go, the September 24 Emporio Armani collection was still finished by Leo Dell'Orco and Silvana Armani and shown as a static presentation. Versace's new chief creative officer, Pieter Mulier, appointed in February, won't show his first collection until early 2027.
Paris: two debuts, several returns
Paris has 68 runway shows and 33 presentations on its official calendar this season, down from 74 and 37. Last season was crowded with designer changes and debuts. This time only two are on the official schedule: Drew Henry at Courrèges on September 30 and Kai Nesselrath at Carven on October 1. Henry was a senior design director at Burberry; Nesselrath was head womenswear designer at Saint Laurent.
More houses are coming back than starting over. Valentino showed in Rome last season and Maison Margiela in Shanghai; both are back in Paris. Sacai, Casablanca, Christopher Esber and Ester Manas return after sitting out last season, and South Africa's Maxhosa Africa joins the runway schedule for the first time. Alaïa, still without a successor to Mulier, is showing a studio collection as a presentation on October 3. Rabanne skips the season, with its new designer's debut set for March. Chanel shows on the evening of October 5 and Louis Vuitton closes on October 6.
After Paris
The season actually started in Asia. Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo opened August 31 and Seoul ran September 1–6, both ahead of New York.
October heads back to Asia and to South America. Shanghai's Spring/Summer 2027 week usually lands in early October; The Fashion Fold lists October 9–16, though organizers haven't posted the official schedule yet. São Paulo runs October 13–18 and Taipei October 15–18.
The next big stretch starts in January with Pitti Uomo in Florence (January 12–15), followed by Milan and Paris menswear and Paris Haute Couture Week (January 25–28). Women's Fall/Winter returns in February and March, and unless Paris changes its rules first, it will still be the only big-four city that lets fur on the official schedule.
Sources: CFDA announcement (December 2025); Vogue, "New York Fashion Week to Ban Fur on the Runway"; Voyage New York on the NYFW opening; ShopeX fashion daily (September 17, 2026) on LFW and the Armani appointment; DEEPFASHION on McQueen's SS27 London show; Vogue Arabia Milan SS27 show and trend reports; The Paris Eye and Luxury.it on the PFW SS27 schedule; Oui Speak Fashion 2026–27 calendar; The Fashion Fold 2026 calendar.