The SS27 shows have caused a schism within the beauty industry. While some fashion houses embraced high-shine clean girl glamour, others were unafraid to bring the drama.
In Milan, make-up artist Sam Visser set Instagram ablaze with his “super sexy pop” look, which featured heavy smokey black eyeliner that was blended into a wash of colourful eyeshadow. Then, Diesel debuted an equally viral smudged-out red lipstick look by Inge Grognard that had models looking like they had come straight from an orgy .
Paris, meanwhile, has been delightfully wild. Noir Kei Ninomiya stunned showgoers with Rococo ringlets and flowers for lips, while Vaquera models wore goggle-shaped purple eyeshadow and spiky hair. Drag make-up was also seen at Margiela, while Rick Owens gave models huge, ethereal avian lashes.
Below, we round up the hottest looks fresh from the Paris runways.
Dazed cover stars Fecal Matter (Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose Dalton) presented The Ninety Nine Percent on the first day of Paris Fashion Week. The duo led their own make-up this season and applied alien-like enlarged pupils onto some of the models.
Others wore sharp, chunky winged-eyeliner that cascaded down into lines of streaky tears. Gabriel de Fries contrasted this with a series of “simple hair” looks that varied in length, from shoulder to floor-grazing.
Meanwhile, SFX artist Catalina Sartor gave models metallic horns that protruded from their heads, faces and, for some, covered their entire bodies.
Margiela’s Hard and Soft collection featured very pared-back beauty at first. Then, showgoers were surprised with three drag-inspired looks, courtesy of Inge Grognard. This featured pink blush that was brushed up into hairlines, a pale base and white eyeshadow that highlighted the eyebrow bone, as well as full, fluffy lashes and bright red lipstick. Over on hair, Tom Wright created sleek, gelled-back strands with artificial blonde roots.
For Hodakova’s new collection, make-up artist Thomas de Kluyver sent models down the runway with huge beady eyes painted on top of their eyelids, which were decorated with either short lashes or a border of black eyeliner. The result was quite eerie.
Models that looked down or closed their eyes held quite a vacant cartoonish expression. The theme of facial features not quite as they seem was also found later in the week at Abra, where upside-down lips by Marcelo Gutierrez created an uncanny feeling.
Avian eyes made an appearance at Rick Owens’ Stone runway show. Make-up artist Daniel Sällström gave models a set of jet-black dilated pupils which were partially covered with enormous circular wispy lashes. Brows had a bleached look which complemented the bold eyeshadow used. Long futuristic tresses and shorter geometric looks also tore down the runway, courtesy of hairstylist Duffy.
Rococo ringlets were all the rage at Noir Kei Ninomiya’s Petal Rebellion show. Hair and make-up artist Shinji Konishi twirled the models’ hair in small sections, which bounced down the runway. Lips were covered in huge petals and flowers which added a futuristic element to the otherwise 18th-century-inflected look.
Violet was the word at Vaquera. Make-up artist Daniel Sällström created diffused purple eyeshadow and glittery lashes for the brand’s I’m a put-on-a-show kind of girl collection. Lips were encrusted with purple and iridescent glitter which were set against natural brushed-through brows. The final look also featured unruly hair in the form of spikes, waves and crimps by Claire Grech.
Make-up artist Mel Arter kept the glittery mouth theme going at Cecilie Bahnsen’s Any Given Day collection using Rationale for make-up and skincare. Here, chunkier sequins were stuck to each of the models’ lips, resembling a romantic and messy “just kissed” look. Hair was suitably tousled for an effortless effect by Cim Mahony.
Windswept tousled hair and messy braids were the look du jour at Ann Demeulemeester’s Lonesome Heaven show. This season, creative director Stefano Gallici was inspired by a road trip he took through the Californian desert and honed in on images of isolation and decay.
Hairstylist Anthony Turner reflected this through gelled sweaty strands, shiny sun-kissed tresses and small braids at the front of the hair – as seen on singer Ethel Cain, who walked in the show. Inge Grognard was back on make-up and applied brushed out eyeliner on the models’ bottom lids.
This season, Junya Watanabe meshed rock and funk references together. Make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench painted models’ faces with a striking, glowy base and sticky metallic eyeshadow that matched each of their eye colours – green went with green, purple with blue and gold with brown.
Lips were a deep plum red, with one look featuring a dark ombre lip line. Souleiman was back on hair, playing with shape and texture.
Sculptural wigs were used to create sharp and asymmetrical, shoulder-skimming hairdos.
Pressiat’s She Will Live collection reflected the pains of a messy break-up story with a series of disjointed looks. Make-up artist Marieke Thibaut brushed swathes of black eyeshadow onto a few models, which looked as though they’d had a wild night out.
One model had their entire face and décolletage painted silver, while another was covered head-to-toe. Another look featured a face tattoo that read “STOP”, while the model wore a white T-Shirt with “Homophobia?
SO LAST SEASON.” printed on it. Hair, meanwhile, featured structured curls and ends by Kevin Jacotot.
Feathery lashes were spotted again, this time at Yohji Yamamoto. This season, the look was glazed skin accessorised with large, fallen eyelashes that were stuck to the face in different directions. Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman created airy hair looks with movement to complement the collection’s sheer and opaque woven garments.
At Comme des Garçons, headdresses blended into hair. The towering headpiece, created by Nobuki Hizume, resembled a variety of different crowns, which were delicately balanced upon a selection of gold wigs. Hair and make-up artist Takeo Arai matted strands together and fashioned the hair into choppy, full-fringes.
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