The idea for Laura and Deanna Fanning’s latest Kiko Kostadinov collection was actually conceived four years ago, in 2022, when the designers visited a Bordeaux retrospective for the multi-disciplinary artist Nanda Vigo. Vigo is best known for Cronotopo , a series of cuboid constructions made from steel and fluted glass, with neon strip tubes emitting light from their insides; her work explores time, space and their never-ending possibilities.
“The idea of ‘cronos-topos,’ time-space, became a starting point for thinking about clothing as an architecture that is constantly changing through movement and proximity, exploring how a body alters the space around it,” read the SS27 show notes.
On the dimly lit runway – illuminated infrequently by random shafts of white light – this idea was translated into fabrics that provided both gentle draping and a rigid framework for the body. A double-breasted crimson coat opened the show, its big side pockets sticking out like aerodynamic wings.
This was followed by cropped jackets with utility pockets, chevron striped skirts with jaggedy hems and pleated tops with strong, protruding shoulders. “This play between structure and freedom runs throughout the collection,” said the designers.
Continuing in the show notes, the Fanning sisters stated that “the clothes are not intended to transform the woman into another character, but to reveal different dimensions within her.” If this adage was anything to go by, the Kiko woman this season was intent on letting her colourful side show: striped dresses were doused in vibrant hues of cobalt and teal, while the cloudy check of a floaty dress consisted of bright reds, yellows and purple.
Scroll through the gallery above for more looks from the show
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From uncanny eyes at Hodakova to SFX horns at Matières Fécales and lots of bold glitter looks, the beauty in Paris this season was a feast for the senses