A black-tie invite tells you exactly what to do: gown, heels, done. “Formal” calls for polished, occasion-ready looks; “cocktail” has its own well-worn (and self-explanatory) rules. But semi-formal attire? This directive sits in a gray zone, making it one of the easiest wedding style choices to overthink; as a bridal stylist, it’s the dress code my clients (and my group chats) text me the most about.

Here’s the clearest way to think about it: Semi-formal is the middle ground between formal and casual wear, heavily influenced by the event’s venue and time of day. A semi-formal wedding guest dress can be smart enough for an evening reception on a rooftop, yet laid-back enough for an afternoon garden ceremony.

Choose mid- to knee-length silhouettes (save the minis for explicitly casual dress codes), tailored separates, and statement colors with subtle prints. The aim is to look polished without feeling overdone, and, above all, to feel comfortable.

When in doubt, err a notch fancier than you think the invitation requires—my general rule of thumb is that it’s better to be overdressed than underdressed.

Proenza Schouler’s red-and-blue dress, Tove’s turquoise maxi, and Massimo Dutti’s flowing bohemian style all make strong cases for a bolder take on semi-formal wedding guest dressing. For the minimalists, the LBD has a place here, too: Khaite’s strapless midi, Chloé’s lace-trimmed slip, and Staud’s one-shoulder number are all sharp alternatives to the usual wedding-guest uniform, proving that classic doesn’t have to mean predictable.

Ultimately, building a semi-formal wardrobe starts with knowing where to shop, so here are 24 pieces worth having on rotation.

Statement Hues

If gray-zone dressing has you reaching for another safe neutral, let this be your permission to do the opposite. Semi-formal rewards a bold hue, so don’t be afraid to have a bit of fun with color. From Tanya Taylor’s A-line green dress to Altuzarra’s cherry-red, open-back midi, these options read as intentional without leaving you feeling like you’re doing too much.

’90s-Inspired Silhouettes

Every few years, fashion insists on relitigating the ’90s; and every few years, it wins. Luckily, the era’s minimalist silhouettes are well suited to semi-formal fêtes—bias-cut satin midis and maxis in muted tones chief among them. H&M’s lilac satin slip is quietly romantic; Sir’s fluid blue maxi brings a little more movement; and FFORME’s pleated burgundy midi lands somewhere in between. The common thread? Understated sophistication.

Classic LBDs

The little black dress often gets dismissed as the safe, worn-in choice—it’s anything but. The key is to opt for pieces with elevated details and movement, versus a stiff, workday frock. Consider these picks from Staud, L’Agence, La Ligne, Khaite, Chloé, and Proenza Schouler as your go-tos.

Elevated Sets

A suit or coordinated set can be one of the easiest ways to nail a semi-formal dress code. Tailoring inherently brings polish to a wedding guest look, as does a coordinated skirt or trouser set. Turn to Taller Marmo for a festive two-piece, or Sharon Wauchob for a modern skirt suit.