Preppy styling lessons, supermodels, and horsebits galore.
Demna for Gucci . It's a phrase that's already polarizing despite that the designer has only produced a handful of collections as creative director for the Italian house. After his fall/winter 2026 and cruise 2027 shows , we thought Demna had said all he had to say about his new design direction for Gucci , but with this most recent collection, the designer's Gucci era is materializing into something entirely more lucid, precise, and extremely chic.
Titled The Store, Demna described it as "the first collection in which I present my complete personal vision for the brand, based on everything I've learned about it." The show was divided into two distinct parts, dedicating the first to menswear and the second to womenswear. For the latter, that looked like not one singular aesthetic but instead a collection of characters that continues Demna's La Famiglia idea from spring 2026.
It included a nod to '80s power dressing and distinctly Tom Ford -era pencil skirts, plus slinky, cut-out gowns paired with glam fur coats.
It's a vision Demna has been building all year: "the tension between propriety and sensuality," as he put it. Ahead, read everything to know about Gucci's spring/summer 2027 show during Milan Fashion Week .
No, it wasn't an actual new boutique, but the show unfolded inside a full-scale replica of an imagined Gucci super-flagship, complete with marble columns, sleek display cases, and racks of clothing that made showgoers do a double take. "Conceived as a retail space, it previews his aesthetic for the Gucci stores of the future," the brand explained.
As for what that aesthetic entails? Think Greco-Roman sculptures and sleek marble columns that blend Gucci's Italian heritage with its modern Demna-fied direction.
Rather than a singular muse, the spring 2027 collection is built around a "complete palette of personalities," each one a different facet of Demna's Gucci: The Rebellious Aristocrat, The Snob, and The Eccentric. It's a continuation of his S/S '26 collection titled La Famiglia. Together, the three archetypes gave the show a throughline and proved that Demna's Gucci can hold multitudes while still being cohesive.
Layering, popped collars, preppy sweaters, and boot tucks—Demna put a new-season spin on classic wardrobe heroes like leggings , knits and shirts, imbuing them with the house’s signature glamour.
Demna once again proved his knack for A-list casting, and he filled this runway with a suite of supermodels, particularly several VS Angles, that included Rosie Huntington-Whiteley , Elsa Hosk , Candice Swanpoel, and Anok Yai.
Accessories told their own story this season, with Gucci's most enduring emblem, the horsebit. The motif was reimagined across bags, shoes, belts, and outerwear. All eyes are on the bags and models carried both with new-season silhouettes like a sleek "Uptown" tote and a party-ready three-horsebit style and some of the most recognizable styles including the GG Marmont and Ophidia. Even amid all the reinvention, Demna is still considering Gucci's most iconic archives.
Anna is an NYC-based senior fashion editor who has been a member of the Who What Wear team for over eight years, having begun her career in L.A. at brands like Michael Kors and A.L.C. As an editor, she has earned a reputation for her coverage of breaking trends, emerging brands, luxury shopping curations, fashion features, and more.
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