Tory Burch keeps getting better and better. She’s long been one of New York’s brightest and, in our humble opinion, most under-appreciated talents.

That is, if you can call a company that brings in an estimated $2 billion per year underappreciated. And yet, despite her success, she doesn’t get nearly the editorial attention or industry recognition she deserves.

True, she is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year at the upcoming CFDA Awards , but it’s her third nomination in that category in four years and she has yet to win. If you ask us, though, this is definitely her year, especially after this collection.

The show kicked off with a simple, somewhat sack-y dress, in a mottled lilac cotton taffeta, festooned all over with delicate metallic floral embroidery and topped off, as many of the looks were this season, with a festive feather scarf reminiscent of one of those plastic leis you might see at a party store, but, of course, infinitely more appealing. Paired with a ladylike bag and the latest edition to Burch’s panoply of quirky pumps, it was the kind of outfit that one could imagine any woman, regardless of size or age, looking chic in, and it was followed up just two exits later by an even more striking and successful version in orange and silver.

Gorgeous.

A trio of ornate cardigans and below the knee skirts appeared early on — comforting and traditional with their wavy piecrust edges, yet styled as they were with stacks of throat-hugging necklaces made of resin beads, knotted nylon, and articulated brass spheres, they felt fresh and surprisingly youthful. Props to stylist Brian Molloy for that.

Indeed, the styling was stellar throughout, as it always is at Burch’s shows, putting her work in conversation at least with the work of Dries Van Noten, thanks to its easy wearability and casual, yet relentless opulence.

The color pallet too felt very Dries (and very Tory) — the way the vibrant coral, turquoise, violet, mint, vermillion, and butter yellow played off deep browns and cool neutrals.

And, as always, there was a lovely textural richness too: menswear wools were lightened with silk, paper cotton was tie-dyed and washed, and wallpaper jacquards were lined with contrasting silks and fils coupés, while beachy “terrycloth” was rendered in chenille and crepe de chine was glazed to a liquid drape.

“[It’s] opulent femininity meets American pragmatism, seen through the collector’s eye,” said Burch in the collection notes. An exploration of “the psychology of how women pull things together. They want beauty, utility, and humor — the joy of getting dressed.”

It’s a joy Burch clearly shares and one she continues to deliver season after season.

Check out the rest of the collection below.

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